Monday, September 27, 2010

Jeju-do, Day 2: Hiking Hallasan

For our first full day in Jeju-do, we decided to tackle Hallasan which, at 1,950 meters, is the tallest mountain in South Korea! Hallasan stands in the center of Jeju-do in Hallasan National Park.  Took a 1.5 hour bus ride from Seogwipo City Station to Seongpanak on the eastern side of the mountain.  We were completely surprised to see how many people were there!  Apparently, Koreans like their hiking, as there were group of people impeccably attired in hiking boots, long sleeve shirts and waterproof pants, hats, gloves, day-packs, and hiking sticks!  We spent a good part of the way up the mountain hiking in line. Once, about halfway up, two girls asked if they could take their picture with me!  I didn't know I looked that funny... 

The last ~2 km involved climbing up stairs.  I absolutely hated stairs after that climb, but we were above the treeline and above the clouds, so the view was great.  I could see the outline of the entire island. Escaping the noise and really experiencing the wonder of nature was a bit difficult, though.  The peak was covered with people, some of whom even hiked with portable radios! 

Walking a short bit away from the summit, however, provided enough silence for me to view the top of Jeju-do with awe. While I was sitting on the stairs apart from everyone, eating a packet of precooked rice with some dried seaweed (makeshift kimbap), two Korean women stopped to look at me with shocked looks upon their faces.  One took a picture of me, sitting there confusedly, while the other woman rummaged through her backpack.  She pulled out a cylindrical shape wrapped in tinfoil, forcibly pushed aside my lunch I'd been eating, and then strode off, all while talking quite loudly in Korean.  Opening the packed, I found a roll of homemade kimbap! (Kimbap consists of seaweed wrapped around rice with meat and vegetables in teh center - it's like Korean sushi.)  People here are so nice to me!

We all finished eating lunch, goofed around for a while, then climbed back down all the stairs. 

After 19.4 km of walking and about 8 hours, we finally reached the bottom again and celebrated with a victory Cass!  A long, hard day, but beautiful scenery - I even saw two deer!  Completely exhausted, sore, and disgustingly sweaty, we caught a bus for home with a great feeling of satisfaction.  We conquered the highest peak in South Korea!

At the trail-head, eager to go!
CAUTION: SNAKES!
They monitor ascents so that no one gets stuck on top.
Stairway to heaven?
volcanic crater lake, at the peak of Hallasan
the very, very crowded peak - you can see some of the awesome hiking outfits!
I could see the coasts of the whole island!
Gerchie, Chinese exchange students, Sejin, me, Seungmin, Marina, Max
escaping the crowds
I'm excited to be on the way down! Only 5 kilometers to go!
Waiting for the bus at the end of the day - tired and smelly.

Friday, September 24, 2010

Jeju-do, Day 1

I got a week off for Chuseok, the Korean Thanksgiving/harvest festival, and I decided I had to go somewhere exciting.  Since practically every Korean has recommended that I check out this island of the southern tip of South Korea, I booked my ticket and coerced people into joining me on my adventure! 

My plane left Gimpo Airport at 7 AM on Friday morning.  The subway, however, doesn't open until 5:30 AM and, with the airport over an hour away, I thought that might be cutting it a bit close. So at 4:30 AM Marina (Germany) and I took a taxi to Seoul Station, from which we took an airport shuttle bus. We got to the airport early enough that I had a nice 30 minute nap before boarding.

Jeju-do is my happy place.  I'm in love with the island.  Walking out of the airport, I saw palm trees and felt the heat. 

The airport is in Jeju-si, in the north of the island.  Our first night was to be spent in Seogwipo, in the South, so we had to take airport limousine bus #600 for two hours around the western coast of the isle. I slept.

Click on this picture to get an idea of where we traveled and stayed on Jeju-do!

Checked into the Jeju Hiking Inn, a great place to stay.  We had ocean views, free international phone calls, and comfortable beds at a prime location in the center of Seogwipo. From there, Marina and I went to Jungmun Beach for some relaxing on the sands.

Jungmun Resort area in the background

돌 하르방 (stone grandfather) made from volcanic rock

Jungmun Beach, where I sunbathed and swam!
By the time we were suntanned and waterlogged, the rest of our traveling group was just arriving.  My traveling group included:
Seungmin and Sejin (two Korea University buddies)
2 exchange students from China
Gerchie and Max (Vroni's friends from Austria)
Marina (Germany)
Philip (Denmark)

Upon meeting up we walked to Jeongbang Waterfall, the only waterfall in South Korea that falls directly into the ocean.  We were there as the sun was dipping low, making the light lovely on the falls.  Despite being such a well-known place, we were practically the only people there.  I walked off the path and down the rocks to stand at the base of the waterfall, where the spray drenched and deafened me.  I felt so small. 



 We had dinner at a traditional Korean restaurant that looked out over the harbor. We sat on the floor and tried two of Jeju's specialties - black-skinned pig and fish! And I was convinced to eat a very special delicacy....... FISH HEAD!  Yes, I ate a whole fish head - jaw, eye, and all. Yes, the eye popped in my mouth.  But, surprisingly, the cheek meat was quite good!

Sitting on the floor, BBQing our black-skinned pig.

Dinner is served!  They split the fish down the middle along the spine.

Hey, I'm eating a fish head!

Tuesday, September 21, 2010

Myeongdong


Steph, Veronika, and I spent an evening with Hannah and Stella, our amazing buddies!  In Myeongdong, Seoul's main shopping district, we ate some delicious mandu (dumplings), got our pictures taken in a photo booth, decorated the photos (an incredible amount of fun - why don't we do this in the States?!), ate a waffle from a street vendor, and did some shopping.

An entire store dedicated to photo booths!
Children crowded 'round to watch a baseball game!

Wednesday, September 15, 2010

KO-YON GAMES!

Ko-Yon Games:

Courtesy of KU's website, this is what I had read about the Ko-Yon games before experiencing them for myself.  "Korea University (KU) and Yonsei University (YU) are regarded as the most prestigious private universities in Korea. The two schools compete in everything from school buildings to sports games. Each year since 1956, five sports teams - baseball, basketball, ice hockey, rugby, and soccer teams - of KU and YU compete against each other. This is the annual Ko-Yon games, definitely one of the biggest events for the students of the two schools.

"After the game ends, don't go home right away. There is a party that follows, which is called gicha noli (train game). Students make long trains by lining up and putting hands on one another's shoulders. They run around slapping high-fives with students in another train coming from the opposite direction. They also make circles and sing cheer songs together. Also, the trains of students go into restaurants near KU and ask for free food. The owners willingly give food to the students on this day. In this way, they also celebrate the Ko-Yon games." 

It was even more intensely awesome than the description makes it sound.  You are required to wear red.  You are required to scream, dance, cheer, and sing until your throat and limbs are sore. No one watches the game. You watch the cheerleaders and follow their choreographed dances for which you have practiced for hours. (As a freshman, you attend a 4-hour cheer orientation to prepare you for this.) You wave your giant hand, your bang sticks, your plastic bag. Occasionally, you check the scoreboard.  But your duty, as a loyal student, is to cheer your team on to the best of your ability. And that means constantly and loudly.

Friday: Basketball

Pretty interestingly, the games are so important that they were held in the Olympic stadiums of Jamsil Sports Complex. Note: go to the Sports Complex, not Jamsil, station.
(Yonsei, our rival university, beat us in basketball and ice hockey, and we tied 3-3 in baseball.)

Saturday: Rugby

I'm going to go on a little tirade right now. Forgive me, for I know that I will sound anti-American.  But, seriously, WHO INVENTED AMERICAN FOOTBALL?  WHY DON'T WE PLAY RUGBY?? Rugby is a real man's sport. It's fast-paced, intelligent, and thrilling.  I'm completely ready to ditch the NFL and replace it with the National Rugby League. I am in love with this sport, and I have the Ko-Yon games to thank, because Saturday was my first rugby game!

The rugby match started at 11 AM, and KUBA (Korea University Buddy Assistance) had buses to take us to the stadium at 9 AM. It was raining, and I almost didn't convince myself to get out of bed. The rugby game was great, despite the fact that I didn't know any of the rules and that we lost (pretty badly).

Football

You could tell that football was the main event, because the stadium became packed with people for the 1 PM match. After hours of cheering and dancing, WE WON! I made a video of some of our cheering.  Check out the video below for a real treat - the surprise is in the song that they are singing!  After all, who knows how to sing Champs Elysee better than thousands of Korean students at a football match?!


Saturday Night: Anam Party!

Pretty much every bar in Anam had an alum sponsoring the evening.  The restaurant would serve food and beer and soju to students for free, because the alum would pay for everything in honor of his school.  That meant, of course, that we had to say "Gamsahamnida" to and take lots of pictures with older men who had graduated from Korea University!

We would go from bar/restaurant to bar/restaurant cheering, singing, and dancing in the street.  (There was a stage in the middle of the street, too, from which a DJ was blasting tunes.)  When there was room for us, we would swarm in and partake in the free goodies.  My favorite memory from the night occurred on a rooftop bar. The twenty of us had been already served pitchers of beer when a Korean gentleman came out to see us.  We were told that he was the one paying for everything, so we thanked him profusely (in our mangled Korean).  Beaming with pride, he asked the waitress for soju (Korean vodka).  He personally went from person to person, pouring soju into our beer glasses, explaining, "Balance! We like balance!"  Picking up his now well-balanced glass, he tried to lead us in some cheers for Korea University! Because of the language barrier and the late hour, people answered his cheers in their native tongues, but the message came across loud and clear: KOREA UNIVERSITY IS THE BEST! GO KOREA UNIVERSITY! WE ARE PROUD TO BE TIGERS!

I love Korea.

Saturday, September 11, 2010

A train, a car, a boat, a bus...

Last Saturday, I wanted to go to the beach.  I already had made this great plan with the help of my Lonely Planet guidebook.  After only 2.5 hours of traveling (and part of the way by ferry!), I would be sitting on a white sandy beach on some island off the western coast of Incheon.  Threats of inclement weather scared off most of my traveling companions, so, when the day arrived, despite the sunshine pouring down, Philip and I were the only two.

We took Line 6 to Dongmyo, where we transferred to Line 1, which we rode for at least an hour to the end of the line at Incheon.  After a while, though, the subway line surfaced, so we got to see plenty of the city of Seoul - at least, through the windows of the train. 

My book recommended taking a bus (it listed an overwhelming array of possible bus numbers) or a taxi to Wolmido wharf, and we took the lazy/easy way out and grabbed a cab.  For 3,000 won (~$3 USD), we were deposited at Wolmido.  And I had NOT been prepared for Wolmido!

Wolmido was basically a festival on the wharf, complete with Ferris wheel, a giant swinging boat, games where you have to throw a blunt dart and hit balloons to win a giant panda, stalls where you can pick out an octopus tentacle the size of your forearm and they'll grill it up while you wait, batting cages (which Philip tried), and rides that flip you around and up in the air.  The carnival was bustling with people and the sun was out in full force which, when coupled with the laughter and screams, catapulted me into the upper echelons of bliss.

The Tourist Information building seemed like a good place to start.  Unfortunately, no one there spoke English.  Luckily, I am quite good at pointing and clever enough to have written our (hopeful) destination in Korean.  Purchasing the tickets was accomplished by pushing that same piece of paper through a tiny window along with 6,000 won and, after a few minutes of waiting, a ferry pulled up to the dock. Philip handed the tickets to a man to check if that was our boat and, when the tickets were not returned, we figured we might as well head on board.

On the top deck was a beautiful sign:


We found out its significance when more people, mainly families with children, joined us, and a sweet older woman gave me a handful of snacks. 


Those brazen seagulls would take a  snack straight from your outstretched hands!  After a short, 15-20 minutes ride, we were deposited on a rather deserted wharf.

 
 

Much map-checking, questioning pantomimes, and pointing at Philip's watch led us to a bus (i#202, in case you're curious, and on which not a word of English was to be found) that a sweet woman with a child assured us would lead to the destination I had written on that now-beloved piece of paper.

Since nothing was written or announced in English, we were a bit on edge about where to get off.  Finally, after an hour on this bus, we saw beach umbrellas and water and jumped off the bus!  Unfortunately, we weren't exactly where we had planned to go.  In fact, we had no idea where we were.  By this point, however, we had been traveling for about 3.5 hours, and who's to complain, when we were greeted by this?


Lunch at the only restaurant on the beach was followed by getting into our swimsuits and rushing into the gorgeous, cool-but-not-cold, salty water... where we caused quite a stir!  Except for the toddlers splashing in the surf, we were the only ones in the water.  And all of the Korean people, strolling the store with heels and umbrellas, stopped, pointed, and stared.  At first, it was quite strange.  And then we became used to it.  It's hard to be concerned when you're swimming in such a beautiful place!  [Later on, more people got into the water to swim. But, even then, most of the people wore shirts and shorts!  I did not see a single woman in a swimsuit - so I stood out quite a bit in my bikini!]

Swimming was followed by sunbathing followed by scrambling over rocks.  Throughout it all, the sun shone.


Eventually, we figured we should attempt to head for home.  The bus stop, however, did not contain a single word of English.  Luckily, I have been paying attention in my Korean class and can read Korean!  I still don't know what it means, but places are places and, halfway through the list of stops serviced by the second bus that loops through the area, I found something I recognized - Incheon!  From the airport we figured we could take the subway, so we hopped on the next bus, rode until we reached Incheon International Airport, reloaded our T-Money cards, took the airport line to Gimpo International Airport, took Line 1 to its intersection with Line 6 and, after only about 2 hours of travel, we were back on campus with an hour to shower, dress, and eat before meeting everyone else at the Welcoming Party!

Except for Philip, I did not speak English with another person all day.  There were no English signs and no non-Koreans to be seen.  We definitely stood out, but I loved it.  I loved the adventure (which was the term by which Philip kindly referred to the almost 4 hours spent reaching our destination).  When I used to think of Korea, I never thought of beaches!  But, after this gorgeous, perfect day, I am inclined to love Korean beaches.  Unfortunately, that was the last time I saw the sunshine.  Rain has been plaguing Seoul, and I look forward to the day when my umbrella can have time to dry!

Thursday, September 9, 2010

City of Contrasts, Part 2

After an amazing morning at the Bongeunsa Temple and COEX, we were in need of refreshments.  According to my map, there was a near-by park on the Han River.  Basking in the glorious sunshine by the river sounded like a brilliant plan, so we set out in that direction.  A deficit of restaurants and grocery stores drove us to a convenience store where we purchased a bottle of Cass beer and a couple bags of chips - perfect for a hot afternoon by the river!  Thinking the park would be near, we turned a corner and found at least six lanes of highway between us and the river.

Turning to a friendly motorcycle policeman for help, I pointed at the map where we wanted to go and motioned in dismay towards the road with no crosswalks.  After attempting to explain something in Korean to us, the policeman finally motioned for us to follow him, stopped traffic for us to cross the street, and led us down a path that was clearly marked as forbidden for pedestrians.  And then we arrived here:


Koreans, it turns out, are very serious bikers. A hike and bike trail ran alongside the river, and it was full of fancily-attired Koreans pedaling around. An leisurely pace looks very strange when undertaken by an elderly man in full racing attire!  The view, however, was gorgeous, with mountains, the cityscape, and the river.  Jamsil park was an incredibly peaceful place to be when surrounded by such a bustling metropolis.  Vroni, Philip, Steph, and I sat around for quite a while, contemplating climbing mountains, paddle-boating, and river cruising, and, when the sun dipped low, we made the subway journey home. 

Seoul is a very busy, very confusing, very beautiful city. 

Monday, September 6, 2010

City of Contrasts

Seoul is a crazy, beautiful, mixed-up city.  On Friday, Steph (France), Vroni (Austria), Philip (Denmark), and I (USA) set out to find a temple and a mall.  We took subway line 6 from campus to Yaksu, where we transfered to line 3, rode line 3 to Express Bus Terminal and line 7, and got off at Cheongdam.  The subways here are clean and simple.  All the signs even have English translations!

My little Lonely Planet Seoul guidebook, despite being 7 years old, accurately led us out of the station and, after about 15 minutes of walking, we found COEX Mall.  COEX is a ridiculously huge, mostly underground mall that has everything.  In it you can find conference centers, an aquarium, game rooms, a Lamborghini leather store, the kimchi museum, a giant theater, and StarCraft centers. And any store you could ever want so see.

Before going into COEX, however, we decided to take advantage of the beautiful weather and find the Bongeunsa temple, one of Korea's most traditional Buddhist temples - and it's really old!  Bongeunsa became the nation's leading temple by 1550.  What struck me the most, however, was the intricate detail of the artistry.  Everything was just so darn gorgeous! 


The temple is still used for prayer. Everything was hushed, as people bowed, lit candles and incense, and meditated. A light rain began to fall, which made the scene even more ethereal, especially when we came around a grove of well-pruned trees to find this:


Steph is standing in front, to give you some idea of the scale!

The most interesting part, however, was the contrast of the old and the new, the peacefulness and the modern hustle and bustle, the life of an acetic and the commercial life.  Crossing the street in front of the temple led to a modern-day shrine to consumerism.  And I couldn't help but wonder in which one I felt more comfortable.


While the day's adventure didn't end there, my wakefulness is rapidly fading, so I will tell the tale of Friday afternoon at a later date.

The Team!