Homecoming

I am writing this from the United States, to which I returned on Monday after 26 hours of traveling!  It's strange being back, but it is great to be with my family again.  And.... I have more things to share with you about Korea!  As soon as I've settled in (and wrapped all my Christmas presents!), you can look forward to reading about:

- a famous Korean food market... complete with fruit and dog meat for sale!
- strange aspects of  Korea... men with handbags, spitting on streets, and more!
- my favorite Korean food (don't worry - dog meat is NOT on this list!)
- Dr. Fish pedicures
- and my readjustment to the States!

So stay tuned!

Anyang Art Park

Out at the end of the subway line is Anyang Art Park.  Once you get off at the station, signs direct you easily enough to the park entrance.  It's all free, so you can wander at will!  Artists from around the world created sculptures for the art park...and many are interactive!  I danced with Buddha, for instance.  When Vroni and I went, we had the place almost completely to ourselves. Great way to spend a cool, clear winter day!  On the way out of the park, be sure to stop at one of the adorable coffee shops like we did - great coffee and hot chocolate and an adorable dog to hug!  (But there aren't any restaurants directly in the park, so be prepared with snacks.) When Christmas music began playing in the coffee shop, we couldn't stop smiling!  What a winter wonderland feeling!

My Sassy Girl

In an attempt to be truly Korean, Vroni and I spent the evening watching My Sassy Girl (a 2001 classic Korean romantic comedy) in a DVDbang (bang = room)!  DVDbangs let you pick a movie from their collection to watch in the cozy comfort of a private room - complete with leather couch and leg rests, blankets, and heaters!  I've been told that DVDbangs are popular among young couples, because it gives them an opportunity to spend time alone together. In Korean society, kissing and cuddling is not acceptable in public, so it makes sense that a DVDbang would be an ideal setting for a little bit of quality time!

Vroni and I, unfortunately, didn't cuddle too much.  We did, however, enjoy the quirkiness of My Sassy Girl.  It's the only romantic comedy I've ever see that didn't show a single kiss!

Antiques galore!

If you take subway Line 5 to Dapsimni and go through Exit 2, you reach the Janganpyeong, Samhee 5, and Samhee 6 antique markets.  Inside the large arcades, individual rooms are so packed with furniture and other antique odds and ends that you are barely maneuver inside.  Vroni and I went on Saturday, but the place was practically empty.  Store owners watched Korean dramas on their televisions and welcomed us when we passed by.  Small items were in scarce supply, so, as I have no immediate furniture needs, I didn't buy anything.  Although I did fall in love with almost every traditional Korean chest of drawers - such beautiful artistry!  One day, I will call one my own.

Hongdae: Art, Coffee, and Cats

Hongdae is the area around Hongik University.  (In Korean, university is taehakyo, so Hondae is just a combination of HOKgik TAEhakyo. Pretty cool, huh?)  It's trendy and hip, with lots of shopping opportunities, restaurants, and coffeeshops. 

Cat Cafes are really popular.  In these establishments, you pay a bit more for your drink, but you get to play with the kittens and cats that call the building home!  I guess when most people here live in small apartments, pets are a special luxury.

Also a draw are the weekend 'art markets' and 'free markets.'  Hongik University is well-known for its art school, so on the weekends students and other artists set up booths in a small park.  They sell bags, jewelry, T-shirts, sunglasses, and bunches of other cute, artsy, reasonably-priced things.  Support the local artists and buy something one-of-a-kind!  I totally recommend it. 

Bring out the big guns! (War Memorial of Korea)

Two days after North Korea bombed South Korean soil, I let Philip pick the locations for our weekly adventure.  And he chose the War Memorial of Korea.  Apropos choice, but eerie.  I'm not a fan of war - or guns in general, for that matter - so the trip was a bit of a sobering one for me.

 The museum itself, however, deserves many commendations.  The huge grounds were covered by old military vehicles, fighter jets, and missiles, as well as several memorials to different wars and those who fought and died in them.  

Entry is free, and the museum chronicled the history of wars on the Korean peninsula from Chinese dominion to Japanese occupation to the Korean and Vietnam wars to the future hopes for the Korean military.  With murals, dioramas, models, artifacts, outfits, a model turtle ship used by Admiral Sun-Sin, videos, and some 'experience' rooms, the museum caught and kept my attention - a huge feat for someone who is repulsed by excessive violence.  And Philip, as a man, was fascinated by the big guns, of course, and, as a Dane, was excited to learn about the Danish hospital ship that participated in the Korean war!

In front of them all.

I met an American soldier on the subway one day, and he gave me and my friends a special tour of the DMZ.  Because the DMZ is the most heavily fortified border in the world, dividing the Democratic People's Republic of Korea (North Korea) and the Republic of Korea (South Korea), you can experience it on a guided tour.  We were picked up from Munsan by a soldier, and we were able to cross into the DMZ on a bus thanks to his I.D. 

Vroni and me, with North Korea in the background

Because we were special guests and not on an official tour, we walked around the military camp Bonifas a little bit before joining a USO tour to Panmunjon (판 문점), where we were able to watch a North Korean watching us with binoculars, see a ROK solider guarding the 'door to North Korea,' and even cross over into the North Korean side of the UN conference building.

NK on the right, SK on the left

straddling the border!

We had to walk 2 by 2 in straight lines.

The door to NK!

The scariest gift shop - but never miss a chance to make a sale!

Although it was slightly foggy that day, we were able to get a glimpse of "Propaganda Village" and the world's largest flag pole - both across the border on the North Korean side.  Kinda creepy to know that politics are able to divide a country and one group of people in such an extreme way.

It's kinda funny, though - North Korea and South Korea got involved in 'flag wars' over who could have the largest flag.  NK built one... and SK built a bigger one... so NK built an even bigger one.  Supposedly, the flag has a dead weight of 600 pounds! 



After the official tour we were given a behind-the-scenes look by our amazing host.  We saw the barracks (they have ovens and bathtubs - rarities in Korea!), the recreation room (where we played an intense game of pool), and the dining hall (where we were treated to American food - Philly cheesesteaks, peaches, and Coke!).  Lunch was great, as it gave us an opportunity to talk with the soldiers - great people with great stories.  A little eerie, though, to hear gunshots in the background and have our dining companions carrying live ammunition! 

And, of course, two days later North Korea bombed South Korea.  I'm glad I had the opportunity to see the border - the symbolic battleground of tension and aggression - before tensions reached a whole new level. 

 

 

David (I think?), Philip, Bettina, Veronika, Kate

America, you have failed me. I want McDelivery, too.

Choosing our food from the McDelivery menu.

Address and phone number - ready and written in Korean!

She understood!

Calling 1600-5252.

15 minutes later...

We avoided stairs and the cold!

Our hero.

Yes, they even deliver ice cream.

Shanghai Spicy Chickens are yummy.

Monks are Groovy

My Lonely Planet failed me this time.  In the section on Jogyesa, the largest Buddhist shrine in Seoul, there's a one-sentence mention of the bells: "They are banged 28 times at 4am and 33 times at 6pm."  Luckily, Vroni and I decided to check it out anyway, despite the lackluster treatment in my guidebook.

And it was the most incredible, awe-inspiring, peaceful, beautiful, religious, cosmically grand thing I've ever experienced.  I left that evening going, "I am meant to be Buddhist."  

We had time to walk around the very small complex before 6 PM.  When 6 PM, hit, though, we stopped in our tracks and stared up in wonder at the bell pavillion (pictured at left) as a crazy old monk rocked out on the giant, ancient Buddha drums/bells.  There's a dum to summon earthbound animals, a wooden fish-shaped gong to summon aquatic beings, a metal could-shaped gong to summon birds, and a large bronze bell to summon underground creatures. 


Because it was dark outside, the golden, smiling presence of the three giant Buddhas seemed even more impressive and welcoming.

Seriously, though, watch at least part of this video, where a monk grooves hardcore on the drums.  It was quite dark out, so you can't see anything, but the sounds speak for themselves.  And then just pretend you're listening in the chilly evening air with three golden Buddhas smiling down on you.  Now, that's a religious experience!