In front of them all.

I met an American soldier on the subway one day, and he gave me and my friends a special tour of the DMZ.  Because the DMZ is the most heavily fortified border in the world, dividing the Democratic People's Republic of Korea (North Korea) and the Republic of Korea (South Korea), you can experience it on a guided tour.  We were picked up from Munsan by a soldier, and we were able to cross into the DMZ on a bus thanks to his I.D. 

Vroni and me, with North Korea in the background

Because we were special guests and not on an official tour, we walked around the military camp Bonifas a little bit before joining a USO tour to Panmunjon (판 문점), where we were able to watch a North Korean watching us with binoculars, see a ROK solider guarding the 'door to North Korea,' and even cross over into the North Korean side of the UN conference building.

NK on the right, SK on the left

straddling the border!

We had to walk 2 by 2 in straight lines.

The door to NK!

The scariest gift shop - but never miss a chance to make a sale!

Although it was slightly foggy that day, we were able to get a glimpse of "Propaganda Village" and the world's largest flag pole - both across the border on the North Korean side.  Kinda creepy to know that politics are able to divide a country and one group of people in such an extreme way.

It's kinda funny, though - North Korea and South Korea got involved in 'flag wars' over who could have the largest flag.  NK built one... and SK built a bigger one... so NK built an even bigger one.  Supposedly, the flag has a dead weight of 600 pounds! 



After the official tour we were given a behind-the-scenes look by our amazing host.  We saw the barracks (they have ovens and bathtubs - rarities in Korea!), the recreation room (where we played an intense game of pool), and the dining hall (where we were treated to American food - Philly cheesesteaks, peaches, and Coke!).  Lunch was great, as it gave us an opportunity to talk with the soldiers - great people with great stories.  A little eerie, though, to hear gunshots in the background and have our dining companions carrying live ammunition! 

And, of course, two days later North Korea bombed South Korea.  I'm glad I had the opportunity to see the border - the symbolic battleground of tension and aggression - before tensions reached a whole new level. 

 

 

David (I think?), Philip, Bettina, Veronika, Kate